Saturday, 22 September 2012
Week 8
Day 42 - Portland Circuit - 15 miles - cumulative mileage - 588
This was a part of the SWCP so although it was a circular route I still felt obligated to complete it. I was pleased that I did. The weather was gorgeous. The isle appeared to be a large quarry where rock had been mined but left to create a lunar landscape.
I particularly enjoyed visiting the lighthouse at Portland Bill, as did many other visitors. The cafe was extremely busy.
The walk was relaxed and allowed me time to return to camp, to sunbathe, shower and then catch a bus, to visit the old harbour, in Weymouth for a drink and food.
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Day 43 - Ferrybridge to Lulworth Cove - 15 miles - cumulative mileage 603
Nearly finished! Walked from Ferrybridge on a path created from an old rail track that used to link local communities to the town of Weymouth.
While having breakfast I heard a commotion outside the cafe, to discover that this was being caused by a procession of the original Mini motor cars. I felt as though I was on the film set of the original "The Italian Job".
Having left Weymouth the walk took me out onto some pleasant grass covered cliffs, down to a character pub and then onto a couple if cliffs where there were both long and steep climbs. The second cliff was worth climbing as it presented a wonderful view of Durdle Door, a rock in the form of an arch at the end of a beach, which attracted many visitors.
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| Typical steep cliff walk |
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| Durdle Door |
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Day 44 - Lulworth Cove to Langton Travers nr Swanage - 17 miles - cumulative mileage 620
The day started off in sunshine but with a slight trepidation because today's walk was planned to be both longer and more strenuous than most. After climbing one cliff and then seeing red flags this proved not to be the outcome. The red flags signified that the military would be practicing firing rounds from tanks and so I should not be able to follow the SWCP for the next section.
This was actually a saving grace. It saved me some hard work ascending and descending some cliff tops; and although I was mainly walking on roads I did get to see Corfe Castle and was able to easily locate tonight's campsite - the last on the walk.
Strangely the owner of tonight's campsite comes from my home town, Guildford. Enjoying my last pub meal on the trip and looking forward to my last day, when I shall complete the walk having journeyed for 630 miles.
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Day 45 - Langton Travers to South Haven Point - 10 miles - cumulative mileage 630
I woke up feeling happy that the walk was ending today so I could have a celebration to reward my feat; and secondly that I should therefore have the opportunity to start considering my next challenge, while on my homeward journey later today.
Today's walk took me along cliff paths to Durlston Head and Durlston Castle built for the founder of the Mowlem construction group; and then onto Swanage and Studland Bay before reaching my final destination the Sandbanks ferry, at South Haven Point for my return home by train from Bournemouth.
Having walked past the Tilly Whim Caves and through the woods leading from Durslton Castle and started walking down the grass slope leading into Swanage who should I see but Spela, for the third time on my recent walks. How coincidental was this? We decided to walk into Swanage together to have a coffee and to compare experiences once again. This decision was well-timed as it started to rain.
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| Tilly Whim Caves |
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| View of Swanage |
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| Do I look slimmer than when I started at Minehead? |
- The people I met along the way
- The villages and their communities all the way along the walk.
- The weather! Yes, I was fortunate, especially when on the warmer days I thought I was in a foreign country - could this possibly have been the UK?
- We have some stunning, picturesque scenery on the coast.
Last thoughts ....
- Yes, it was tough in places but a most enjoyable experience. I am glad that I achieved my ambition to complete the entire length of the 630 miles walk in one hit.
- I feel healthy, fit and at peace with the world.
- No, I should not want to do it again, in reverse. I need a different challenge.
Week 7
Day 35 - Strete to Brixham - 17 miles - cumulative mileage 485
Leaving Strete I passed a number of large properties including Rockvale, which a couple walking with me advised was the house owned by the founder and owner of the retail chain, Fat Face.
Pleasant paths led through a wooded area taking me into Dartmouth, passing Dartmouth Castle and St Petrocs Church. Both looked majestic when looking back over the estuary, having taken the ferry over to Kingswear.
The walk from Kingswear was through very pleasant wooded areas with fir trees looking over the estuary, with peat underfoot but then became much tougher with long ascents followed by gentler descents, often aided by steps dug into the hillside, or zigzag paths to make the incline more manageable.
It was also noticeable that there were now fewer people to chat with so I had time to think and appreciate the beauty surrounding me.
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Day 36 - Brixham to Maidencombe - 17 miles - cumulative mileage 502
Interesting walk today as I was walking through areas, including Torquay, visited as a child, with my parents. Realising the walk could be both long and hard I made an early start.
Walked around Brixham harbour, where there is a replica of The Golden Hind. This was followed by a pleasant walk in the woods, consisting mainly of fir trees. It was quite magical as the morning dew, provided a slightly damp and earie feeling together with the darkness provided by the trees, with light coming only from gaps in between the trees, through which the sea could be viewed.
While walking across an open green space, occupied mainly by dog-walkers, I gained a new friend. A Jack Russell, named "Muddy" decided to befriend me, presenting me with his ball and then retrieving it by returning it to me and not his owner, Joyce.
We both enjoyed a laugh about it then walked our separate ways. Then I entered Paignton, where the old folk eat ice creams, drink tea, read their Sunday newspapers, or just stare out to sea. This area together with Torquay were completely opposite to the charming villages, passed along the way. It seemed to lack character and community, though efforts are being made to smarten up Torquay.
Upon leaving Torquay, I made a spontaneous decision to visit the home of an ex-colleague. Unfortunately he was out but I was still able to enjoy a cup of coffee with his wife, enabling me to catch up with all of their news. Regrettably there was rather a lot of news so my planned journey to Shaldon had to be reduced by a few miles, having decided to stop at a "chocolate box" pub, with thatched roof and delightful gardens, where the food and service have been second to none. The staff were very friendly and accommodating.
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Day 37 - Maidencombe to Exmouth - 13 miles - cumulative mileage 515
Having had an excellent breakfast I sauntered off for what should be an excellent day. Though the initial few miles to Shaldon were strenuous the rest were easy going because the walk was mainly alongside the railway between Teignmouth and Dawlish, then by road to Towcross where a ferry would be caught to cross the mouth of the River Exe, over to Exmouth to meet up with Mike, an old friend.
The weather was damp and a little cooler but a warm welcome was guaranteed by Mike and his family. The day also proved to be an opportunity to decide whether to finish the walk at Mike's; or to continue because the weather remained fine. I decided to finish the walk.
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Day 38 - Exmouth to Beer - 19 miles - cumulative mileage 534
It was wonderful to have some company for a change and to be able to chat about things in general. Though Mike only had time to accompany me for 3 hours, to Ladram Bay he was at least able to give me a break from having to carry my rucksack because he carried it for me.
Having had some indecision about where I should stay tonight I found the walk quite easy going as most cliffs had longer plateau, so after a steep climb there tended to be a number of fields to walk through before I might have to descend to a beach, before climbing again. I therefore walked through Budleigh Salterton, Sidmouth and Branscombe before reaching a campsite, at Beer, a pretty village with thatched roofs.
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Day 39 - Beer to Charmouth -12 miles - cumulative mileage 546
Today's walk was a little strange. It started by getting involved with a group of marines running an annual race from Exmouth to Poole along the SWCP. They were running with 10kg rucksacks so if I was not older than them, or had had a number on my back I could well have been "one of them"!
The walk from Seaton to Lyme Regis was through the Underhill, a nature reserve where there was a lot of protected vegetation which blocked my sea view. The narrow path through this vegetation was very twisty though relatively level, stony and full of tree roots that were also slippery making it sometimes tricky not to trip over.
The Cobb at Lyme Regis, where the famous scene from "The French Lieutenant's Woman" took place, was busy with day trippers and holidaymakers walking along the promenade. Unfortunately the heavens opened up so I got drenched before I was able to locate shelter. By the time I reached Charmouth, I had dried out but time was running short so I decided to set up camp and look forward to a new day tomorrow.
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Day 40 - Charmouth to Abbotsbury - 15 miles - cumulative mileage 561
Today turned out to be a delightful one for two reasons - the weather and the meeting of a new friend, from Slovenia. I met Spela sitting on top of Golden Cap, as though she was a queen sitting on her throne keeping vigil over everything around her. She was in fact eating bread and jam purchased from Tesco.
We parted not knowing that we would meet accidentally this evening on the way to the same campsite where we pitched our tents next to each other, before visiting the local pub for a meal to share news of our adventures that day.
My day provided stunning views and long, flat grassy paths across cliff tops. Where there were some steep paths the views were amazing in the sun.
There was also a long flat path along Chessil Beach, which took me part way through the 91 miles of Jurassic Coast.
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Day 41- Abbotsbury to Ferrybridge (Weymouth) - 11.25 miles - cumulative mileage 573
Today was another strange day. The walk was short but I felt weak mentally and physically.
This was probably explained by a number of factors. Firstly I had to say goodbye to my new friend, Spela.
Secondly I had nothing to eat for breakfast except two cereal bars; and thirdly the walk was pretty flat as it involved walking across many wheat fields adjacent to Chesil Beach.
The only place available to serve me a sandwich and coffee was The Moonfleet Hotel. The exterior looked derelict yet the interior looked lavish though somewhat dated, possibly by 100 years.
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Leaving Strete I passed a number of large properties including Rockvale, which a couple walking with me advised was the house owned by the founder and owner of the retail chain, Fat Face.
Pleasant paths led through a wooded area taking me into Dartmouth, passing Dartmouth Castle and St Petrocs Church. Both looked majestic when looking back over the estuary, having taken the ferry over to Kingswear.
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| Dartmouth Naval College |
It was also noticeable that there were now fewer people to chat with so I had time to think and appreciate the beauty surrounding me.
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Day 36 - Brixham to Maidencombe - 17 miles - cumulative mileage 502
Interesting walk today as I was walking through areas, including Torquay, visited as a child, with my parents. Realising the walk could be both long and hard I made an early start.
Walked around Brixham harbour, where there is a replica of The Golden Hind. This was followed by a pleasant walk in the woods, consisting mainly of fir trees. It was quite magical as the morning dew, provided a slightly damp and earie feeling together with the darkness provided by the trees, with light coming only from gaps in between the trees, through which the sea could be viewed.
While walking across an open green space, occupied mainly by dog-walkers, I gained a new friend. A Jack Russell, named "Muddy" decided to befriend me, presenting me with his ball and then retrieving it by returning it to me and not his owner, Joyce.
We both enjoyed a laugh about it then walked our separate ways. Then I entered Paignton, where the old folk eat ice creams, drink tea, read their Sunday newspapers, or just stare out to sea. This area together with Torquay were completely opposite to the charming villages, passed along the way. It seemed to lack character and community, though efforts are being made to smarten up Torquay.
Upon leaving Torquay, I made a spontaneous decision to visit the home of an ex-colleague. Unfortunately he was out but I was still able to enjoy a cup of coffee with his wife, enabling me to catch up with all of their news. Regrettably there was rather a lot of news so my planned journey to Shaldon had to be reduced by a few miles, having decided to stop at a "chocolate box" pub, with thatched roof and delightful gardens, where the food and service have been second to none. The staff were very friendly and accommodating.
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| Staff at the Thatched Tavern including Agis, from Hungary |
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| The Thatched Tavern, Maidencombe |
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Day 37 - Maidencombe to Exmouth - 13 miles - cumulative mileage 515
Having had an excellent breakfast I sauntered off for what should be an excellent day. Though the initial few miles to Shaldon were strenuous the rest were easy going because the walk was mainly alongside the railway between Teignmouth and Dawlish, then by road to Towcross where a ferry would be caught to cross the mouth of the River Exe, over to Exmouth to meet up with Mike, an old friend.
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| The London Paddington to Penzance line at Teignmouth |
The weather was damp and a little cooler but a warm welcome was guaranteed by Mike and his family. The day also proved to be an opportunity to decide whether to finish the walk at Mike's; or to continue because the weather remained fine. I decided to finish the walk.
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Day 38 - Exmouth to Beer - 19 miles - cumulative mileage 534
It was wonderful to have some company for a change and to be able to chat about things in general. Though Mike only had time to accompany me for 3 hours, to Ladram Bay he was at least able to give me a break from having to carry my rucksack because he carried it for me.
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| Stunning red cliffs east of Sidmouth |
Having had some indecision about where I should stay tonight I found the walk quite easy going as most cliffs had longer plateau, so after a steep climb there tended to be a number of fields to walk through before I might have to descend to a beach, before climbing again. I therefore walked through Budleigh Salterton, Sidmouth and Branscombe before reaching a campsite, at Beer, a pretty village with thatched roofs.
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Day 39 - Beer to Charmouth -12 miles - cumulative mileage 546
Today's walk was a little strange. It started by getting involved with a group of marines running an annual race from Exmouth to Poole along the SWCP. They were running with 10kg rucksacks so if I was not older than them, or had had a number on my back I could well have been "one of them"!
The walk from Seaton to Lyme Regis was through the Underhill, a nature reserve where there was a lot of protected vegetation which blocked my sea view. The narrow path through this vegetation was very twisty though relatively level, stony and full of tree roots that were also slippery making it sometimes tricky not to trip over.
The Cobb at Lyme Regis, where the famous scene from "The French Lieutenant's Woman" took place, was busy with day trippers and holidaymakers walking along the promenade. Unfortunately the heavens opened up so I got drenched before I was able to locate shelter. By the time I reached Charmouth, I had dried out but time was running short so I decided to set up camp and look forward to a new day tomorrow.
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Day 40 - Charmouth to Abbotsbury - 15 miles - cumulative mileage 561
Today turned out to be a delightful one for two reasons - the weather and the meeting of a new friend, from Slovenia. I met Spela sitting on top of Golden Cap, as though she was a queen sitting on her throne keeping vigil over everything around her. She was in fact eating bread and jam purchased from Tesco.
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| Golden Cap - at 191m, this is the highest point on the South Coast |
My day provided stunning views and long, flat grassy paths across cliff tops. Where there were some steep paths the views were amazing in the sun.
There was also a long flat path along Chessil Beach, which took me part way through the 91 miles of Jurassic Coast.
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Day 41- Abbotsbury to Ferrybridge (Weymouth) - 11.25 miles - cumulative mileage 573
Today was another strange day. The walk was short but I felt weak mentally and physically.
This was probably explained by a number of factors. Firstly I had to say goodbye to my new friend, Spela.
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| My friend Spela, from Slovenia |
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Week 6
Day 28 - Polkerris to Portlooe - 16 miles - cumulative mileage 386
There were no food establishments near the campsite so I walked down to Polkerris beach for 09:00 to discover Sam's Beach Bar and had a novelty meal - a breakfast pizza, containing the usual eggs, bacon, sausage, tomato plus a side order of baked beans. This was yummy and kept me going nearly all day.
The first stop was at Fowey. It had narrow streets as do all these villages plus a quay where I was able to enjoy a refreshing drink before taking the ferry over the estuary to the other side of the village.
The walk from there to Polperro was a strenuous one with many steep cliffs to climb up and down, luckily with the aid of steps in most cases. The weather was excellent with the sun on my face and a refreshing breeze to keep me cool.
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| Polperro |
The walk was made even more pleasurable with the company of Penny and Martin, who were both charming and interesting people. They knew Guildford (my hometown) as they lived in a local village named Headley.
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| Penny and Martin |
However the day was spoilt a little by experiencing a second night of frustration trying to locate a campsite. The one selected could not be located so I walked on and found one at 20:00, just as it was getting dark. It happened to have the largest and cleanest facilities so far, so turned out to be the correct decision.
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Day 29 - Portlooe to Downderry - 6 miles - cumulative mileage 392
Today was a half-day, partly to have a rest and secondly to enable a stay at a campsite offering both a sauna and jacuzzi to relax my weary limbs.
The walk had been mainly on roads that were hilly, especially after Looe, a small town full of gift and eating establishments, that looked a little tired, like me.
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| Walking down a very steep hill into Looe |
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| Harbour in Looe |
Once again I am pleased with my decision as a light rain has fallen all afternoon, which would have made walking a rather damp and dreary experience
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Day 30 - Downderry to Cremyll (ferry for Plymouth) - 18 miles - cumulative mileage 410
Today's walk took place with stunning weather - in fact the best since commencing the walk. Was this something to do with it being the first day of the new school better, I wonder?
Having had breakfast prepared especially for me, by Kerry (the campsite owner), and having had a long chat with her, I departed to Portwinkle (what a name!). There was nothing there except an excellent cafe where I was able to log into emails and enjoy a Coke, while they prepared some sandwiches for me to take away.
The walk was easy going as I progressed along paths covered with stinging nettles (ouch!) and various weeds, while overlooking another lengthy stretch of sand at Long Sands, as I approached Rame Head.
Walking into the narrow streets of Cawsand, earlier than expected, I rewarded myself with a tasteful blackcurrant and cream ice cream. The next village, Kingsand was almost an extension of Cawsand. The difference between the two villages was that many of the houses in Kingsand were painted in "ice cream" colours (or at least they reminded me of ice cream flavours), which looked very distinctive.
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| Kingsand |
As today's walk came to an end at the ferry for Plymouth, I had one decision to make - stay at the B & B by the ferry slip or take the ferry across to Plymouth, find a B & B then have access to the city centre first thing in the morning. I decided to opt for the former choice. Glad I did! The room is excellent and the food brilliant plus they sell my new favourite Cornish beer - "Proper Job", made by the St Austell brewery.
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Day 31 - Cremyll to Wembury - 15 miles - cumulative mileage 425
Today started with the ferry crossing over The Tamar followed by a walk through the streets of Plymouth and around the busy waterfront where I viewed The Hoe and Smeaton's Tower; plus the shops, coffee houses and bars adjacent to the craft moored in the harbour.
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| Smeaton's Tower on The Hoe |
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| Plymouth street paved with gold |
Regrettably I did not take the option to use the ferry across to Mount Batten, but walked around taking in the sight of industry, busy roads and sewage works! Eventually I was up on a cliff top once again, walking on grass or in wooded areas from which I could look over the water to see where I had walked yesterday and to view Plymouth.
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Day 32 - Wembury to Bigbury on Sea - 12 miles - cumulative mileage 437
Leaving Wembury on a beautiful day provided some stunning images looking through trees, at the sail boats anchored on the azure blue waters at Wembury Beach.
The walk was easy going as a path had been created for a Lord Revelstoke to provide a carriage drive.
I had fun wading through a foot deep ford at the River Erme to save a 7 mile walk. It did not matter getting my feet wet today as the weather was sunny and warm.
The cliffs today were steep but unlike those on the North Coast where streams often meant as soon as you came down you had to go up, you could now walk across grassy fields on top of the cliffs and were therefore easier to walk on.
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| Lesley & Mick |
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Day 33 - Bigbury on Sea to Salcombe - 13 miles - cumulative mileage 450
Today's walk took place over a more rugged coastline with a combination of grass and gorse mixed in with some smaller boulders to make it more challenging than for several days.
This included reaching 120m above sea level at Bolberry Down.
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| Initial views of South Sands |
The highlight of the day was to see a glorious Morgan sports car parked outside the Sands Hotel, upon my arrival at South Sands on the outskirts of Salcombe.
The evening was spent at the Salcombe YHA where I had dinner getting to know a group of 70 year old ladies on a walking holiday. They were a wonderful example to us all. They had been walking for over 35 years so were very fit for their age and because they were fit they bad a tremendous and positive outlook on life.
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Day 34 - Salcombe to Strete - 17 miles - cumulative mileage 468
The weather was absolutely stunning and the views back toward Salcombe even more so, once the mist had lifted. The town oozed wealth so I started with a feel-good attitude.
The ladies left an hour before me but by the time I caught up with them they were still walking hard and fast even though the paths were rugged and sometimes challenging, as we approached Prawle Point, the most southerly part of Devon.
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| Not far to go! |
The path from Torcross onwards became easier because I had an excellent sandwich and refreshing drink at the first hostellery in 4 hours of walking from Salcombe. The weather remained sunny and warm; plus the ground became flat as I walked along a path adjacent to Slapton Sands which went on for at least 3 miles.
The village of Strete was pretty and inviting with a newly refurbished pub and a friendly campsite just up the road where I met with a couple whom I later met in the pub.
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