Leaving Strete I passed a number of large properties including Rockvale, which a couple walking with me advised was the house owned by the founder and owner of the retail chain, Fat Face.
Pleasant paths led through a wooded area taking me into Dartmouth, passing Dartmouth Castle and St Petrocs Church. Both looked majestic when looking back over the estuary, having taken the ferry over to Kingswear.
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| Dartmouth Naval College |
It was also noticeable that there were now fewer people to chat with so I had time to think and appreciate the beauty surrounding me.
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Day 36 - Brixham to Maidencombe - 17 miles - cumulative mileage 502
Interesting walk today as I was walking through areas, including Torquay, visited as a child, with my parents. Realising the walk could be both long and hard I made an early start.
Walked around Brixham harbour, where there is a replica of The Golden Hind. This was followed by a pleasant walk in the woods, consisting mainly of fir trees. It was quite magical as the morning dew, provided a slightly damp and earie feeling together with the darkness provided by the trees, with light coming only from gaps in between the trees, through which the sea could be viewed.
While walking across an open green space, occupied mainly by dog-walkers, I gained a new friend. A Jack Russell, named "Muddy" decided to befriend me, presenting me with his ball and then retrieving it by returning it to me and not his owner, Joyce.
We both enjoyed a laugh about it then walked our separate ways. Then I entered Paignton, where the old folk eat ice creams, drink tea, read their Sunday newspapers, or just stare out to sea. This area together with Torquay were completely opposite to the charming villages, passed along the way. It seemed to lack character and community, though efforts are being made to smarten up Torquay.
Upon leaving Torquay, I made a spontaneous decision to visit the home of an ex-colleague. Unfortunately he was out but I was still able to enjoy a cup of coffee with his wife, enabling me to catch up with all of their news. Regrettably there was rather a lot of news so my planned journey to Shaldon had to be reduced by a few miles, having decided to stop at a "chocolate box" pub, with thatched roof and delightful gardens, where the food and service have been second to none. The staff were very friendly and accommodating.
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| Staff at the Thatched Tavern including Agis, from Hungary |
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| The Thatched Tavern, Maidencombe |
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Day 37 - Maidencombe to Exmouth - 13 miles - cumulative mileage 515
Having had an excellent breakfast I sauntered off for what should be an excellent day. Though the initial few miles to Shaldon were strenuous the rest were easy going because the walk was mainly alongside the railway between Teignmouth and Dawlish, then by road to Towcross where a ferry would be caught to cross the mouth of the River Exe, over to Exmouth to meet up with Mike, an old friend.
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| The London Paddington to Penzance line at Teignmouth |
The weather was damp and a little cooler but a warm welcome was guaranteed by Mike and his family. The day also proved to be an opportunity to decide whether to finish the walk at Mike's; or to continue because the weather remained fine. I decided to finish the walk.
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Day 38 - Exmouth to Beer - 19 miles - cumulative mileage 534
It was wonderful to have some company for a change and to be able to chat about things in general. Though Mike only had time to accompany me for 3 hours, to Ladram Bay he was at least able to give me a break from having to carry my rucksack because he carried it for me.
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| Stunning red cliffs east of Sidmouth |
Having had some indecision about where I should stay tonight I found the walk quite easy going as most cliffs had longer plateau, so after a steep climb there tended to be a number of fields to walk through before I might have to descend to a beach, before climbing again. I therefore walked through Budleigh Salterton, Sidmouth and Branscombe before reaching a campsite, at Beer, a pretty village with thatched roofs.
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Day 39 - Beer to Charmouth -12 miles - cumulative mileage 546
Today's walk was a little strange. It started by getting involved with a group of marines running an annual race from Exmouth to Poole along the SWCP. They were running with 10kg rucksacks so if I was not older than them, or had had a number on my back I could well have been "one of them"!
The walk from Seaton to Lyme Regis was through the Underhill, a nature reserve where there was a lot of protected vegetation which blocked my sea view. The narrow path through this vegetation was very twisty though relatively level, stony and full of tree roots that were also slippery making it sometimes tricky not to trip over.
The Cobb at Lyme Regis, where the famous scene from "The French Lieutenant's Woman" took place, was busy with day trippers and holidaymakers walking along the promenade. Unfortunately the heavens opened up so I got drenched before I was able to locate shelter. By the time I reached Charmouth, I had dried out but time was running short so I decided to set up camp and look forward to a new day tomorrow.
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Day 40 - Charmouth to Abbotsbury - 15 miles - cumulative mileage 561
Today turned out to be a delightful one for two reasons - the weather and the meeting of a new friend, from Slovenia. I met Spela sitting on top of Golden Cap, as though she was a queen sitting on her throne keeping vigil over everything around her. She was in fact eating bread and jam purchased from Tesco.
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| Golden Cap - at 191m, this is the highest point on the South Coast |
My day provided stunning views and long, flat grassy paths across cliff tops. Where there were some steep paths the views were amazing in the sun.
There was also a long flat path along Chessil Beach, which took me part way through the 91 miles of Jurassic Coast.
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Day 41- Abbotsbury to Ferrybridge (Weymouth) - 11.25 miles - cumulative mileage 573
Today was another strange day. The walk was short but I felt weak mentally and physically.
This was probably explained by a number of factors. Firstly I had to say goodbye to my new friend, Spela.
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| My friend Spela, from Slovenia |
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