Day 11 - Crackington Haven to Tintagel 11.4 miles cumulative mileage 145 miles
A very strange day. Yesterday's walk may have been the toughest of all the walks on the South West Coast but today's was not far behind. This was, I believe a psychological backlash from yesterday's walk. There still continued many steep ascents and descents but thank goodness that someone was considerate enough to install some steps to make life easier.
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| Boscastle harbour |
The walk took me through Boscastle Harbour, some of which was rebuilt following the flood of 2004. Do you remember the film on the BBC news where a car was carried across the bridge by a built up of muddy flood water?
The cliffs were staggering, striding up from the sea like great rocky monoliths; and I was only 6 feet, or so from the edge at all times. The paths also took me through extensive hill sides covered in a carpet of heather in both purple, yellow and gold.
The night was spent at a campsite located adjacent to a hotel, looking like a castle, supposedly owned by a mad scientoligist (but his name was not Tom Cruise).
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Day 12 - Tintagel to Polzeath 15 miles cumulative mileage 160 miles
Tintagel was an amazing place. Why?
Well it was supposedly the home of King Arthur and his castle. The National Trust manage Tintagel Castle on top of a prominent rock that juts out from the walk in Tintagel, linked by a bridge. The venue was well attended by day travelers.
This was just the first stunning location visited today. The walk continued on towards the pretty village of Port Isaacs, a working fishing village. There were many fish restaurants to be found in the olde-wolde village. This was also the location used by Martin Clunes for his comedy drama, "Doc Martin".
I also met only the second person on the entire walk so far, that was walking the entire length of the SWCP. We therefore enjoyed comparing notes on how we were both progressing together with our respective experiences. Regrettably he was suffering from food poisoning so was only 70% operational.
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Having left him at Port Isaacs, I continued onto Polzeath, the beach made famous by Princes William and Harry. A local resident told me they surf, water ski and party there and in Rock nearby. Luckily I managed to pitch my tent and then find something to eat, just before the rain started and continued over night.
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Day 13 - Polzeath to Treyarnon 16 miles cumulative mileage 176 miles
The day started out looking somewhat overcast so I wondered what the day would bring. Having had a smoothie together with a sausage bap the sun came out and so i continued with today's walk and what an adventure it was to be. The walk started out on a smooth tarmac towards a path down to the most extensive sandy beach that I have ever seen either here, or abroad. While the tide was out you could walk for 2-3 miles on smooth velvety sand. The only problem was that the wind was getting stronger as I walked and so sand was blowing up into my face.
The walk had been worthwhile as I was rewarded with a cafe bar, where I drank an excellent cappuccino. Mind you it did cost me £3.50! The location was Rock, another location frequented by royalty and show business stars, who no doubt would happily afford a premium price for everything.
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| Ferry between Rock and Padstow |
A ferry had arrived just I returned to the beach, enabling me to cross the water to Padstow (a crossing permitted in the SWCP as it saves having to walk a considerable distance inland to reach Padstow). Padstow, like its neighbour Rock, was obviously a magnet for the well-heeled Ruperts and Clarissas of this world.
Note: At a later date I met a former colleague's wife for coffee. She informed me that while at Rock, I had walked right past his sailing school business, totally unaware that he had purchased the business. Sorry Richard!
Once again Padstow offered narrow streets and quaint shops together with a few examples of big business like the traditional banks. I left Padstow via a gentle incline on to paths, across several cliffs carpeted in well mowed grass making the walk very comfortable. Below me were several sandy beaches and coves. While on top of the cliffs the wind was noticeably stronger than it has been in the past making what should be a simpler walk, a struggle at times.
While walking across a stunning, sandy beach about 90 minutes away from my proposed destination of Porthcothan the skies opened up so not only were gusts of wind making it more difficult to proceed I found it almost impossible to see from out off my hood to see where I was walking to. Having had a chat with a local couple that had advised me that there was a YHA nearby I found this not far from the beach and was lucky to find an ensuite room. I never realised that YHA offered such luxury! They also have an excellent cafe and lounge area from which I am now writing this section of my blog.
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| Gorgeous sandy beaches |
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| The YHA that came to my rescue and dried me out |
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Day 14 - Treyarnon to Newquay 15 miles cumulative mileage 191 miles
Today's walk as probably one of the easiest so far and certainly made up for some of the tougher walks a week ago. The terrain was a mixture of grass and fine sand, with few inclines or descents to challenge me. The cliffs now appear less high and flatter but perhaps I should not speak too soon!
The last 3 miles was spent walking through the fringes of, and then centre of Newquay where I intend to have a day off to rest my weary legs and to manage the chores, like washing clothes etc. There are plenty of bars and although Newquay does not offer the attraction of recent locations like Port Isaacs and Padstow it does offer many more facilities.
Almost one third through the walk, I look forward to continuing my walk on down to the southern tip of Cornwall, next week, weather permitting of course!
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