Saturday, 22 September 2012

Week 6


Day 28 - Polkerris to Portlooe - 16 miles - cumulative mileage 386

There were no food establishments near the campsite so I walked down to Polkerris beach for 09:00 to discover Sam's Beach Bar and had a novelty meal - a breakfast pizza, containing the usual eggs, bacon, sausage, tomato plus a side order of baked beans. This was yummy and kept me going nearly all day.

The first stop was at Fowey. It had narrow streets as do all these villages plus a quay where I was able to enjoy a refreshing drink before taking the ferry over the estuary to the other side of the village.

The walk from there to Polperro was a strenuous one with many steep cliffs to climb up and down, luckily with the aid of steps in most cases. The weather was excellent with the sun on my face and a refreshing breeze to keep me cool.

Polperro

The walk was made even more pleasurable with the company of Penny and Martin, who were both charming and interesting people. They knew Guildford (my hometown) as they lived in a local village named Headley.
Penny and Martin




However the day was spoilt a little by experiencing a second night of frustration trying to locate a campsite. The one selected could not be located so I walked on and found one at 20:00, just as it was getting dark. It happened to have the largest and cleanest facilities so far, so turned out to be the correct decision.

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Day 29 - Portlooe to Downderry - 6 miles - cumulative mileage 392
Today was a half-day, partly to have a rest and secondly to enable a stay at a campsite offering both a sauna and jacuzzi to relax my weary limbs.

The walk had been mainly on roads that were hilly, especially after Looe, a small town full of gift and eating establishments, that looked a little tired, like me.

Walking down a very steep hill into Looe

Harbour in Looe

Once again I am pleased with my decision as a light rain has fallen all afternoon, which would have made walking a rather damp and dreary experience

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Day 30 - Downderry to Cremyll (ferry for Plymouth) - 18 miles - cumulative mileage 410
Today's walk took place with stunning weather - in fact the best since commencing the walk. Was this something to do with it being the first day of the new school better, I wonder?

Having had breakfast prepared especially for me, by Kerry (the campsite owner), and having had a long chat with her, I departed to Portwinkle (what a name!). There was nothing there except an excellent cafe where I was able to log into emails and enjoy a Coke, while they prepared some sandwiches for me to take away.

The walk was easy going as I progressed along paths covered with stinging nettles (ouch!) and various weeds, while overlooking another lengthy stretch of sand at Long Sands, as I approached Rame Head.

Walking into the narrow streets of Cawsand, earlier than expected, I rewarded myself with a tasteful blackcurrant and cream ice cream. The next village, Kingsand was almost an extension of Cawsand. The difference between the two villages was that many of the houses in Kingsand were painted in "ice cream" colours (or at least they reminded me of ice cream flavours), which looked very distinctive.

Kingsand
The highlight of today was meeting a Glaswegian walking his well-trained Border Collie, as I walked into Mount Edgcumbe Park. He was able to provide a guided tour of the location and the formal gardens at Mount Edgcumbe House because he knew the chief gardener. His son went to the same school as did the chief gardener's son.

As today's walk came to an end at the ferry for Plymouth, I had one decision to make - stay at the B & B by the ferry slip or take the ferry across to Plymouth, find a B & B then have access to the city centre first thing in the morning. I decided to opt for the former choice. Glad I did! The room is excellent and the food brilliant plus they sell my new favourite Cornish beer - "Proper Job", made by the St Austell brewery.

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Day 31 - Cremyll to Wembury - 15 miles - cumulative mileage 425
Today started with the ferry crossing over The Tamar followed by a walk through the streets of Plymouth and around the busy waterfront where I viewed The Hoe and Smeaton's Tower; plus the shops, coffee houses and bars adjacent to the craft moored in the harbour.


Smeaton's Tower on The Hoe

Plymouth street paved with gold

Regrettably I did not take the option to use the ferry across to Mount Batten, but walked around taking in the sight of industry, busy roads and sewage works! Eventually I was up on a cliff top once again, walking on grass or in wooded areas from which I could look over the water to see where I had walked yesterday and to view Plymouth.

While up on the cliff I also met the local ramblers group - all 40 members! Waiting for them to pass by seemed to take an eternity. The walk was a lazy one for I had some spare time before having to arrive at tonight's B & B. I therefore spent a while on a beach watching families playing; and enjoying cups of coffee plus strawberry tarts. Upon arrival at my accommodation I was introduced to Chris and David, fellow walkers so we went to the local pub for a meal and to share experiences walking the SWCP.

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Day 32 - Wembury to Bigbury on Sea - 12 miles - cumulative mileage 437
Leaving Wembury on a beautiful day provided some stunning images looking through trees, at the sail boats anchored on the azure blue waters at Wembury Beach.




The walk was easy going as a path had been created for a Lord Revelstoke to provide a carriage drive.

I had fun wading through a foot deep ford at the River Erme to save a 7 mile walk. It did not matter getting my feet wet today as the weather was sunny and warm.

The cliffs today were steep but unlike those on the North Coast where streams often meant as soon as you came down you had to go up, you could now walk across grassy fields on top of the cliffs and were therefore easier to walk on.
















Lesley & Mick
After a long day I was pleased just to settle down in my tent at Molly farm, where I met with Lesley & Mick who had many tales to tell regarding their travels on a motor bike including one trip around the world.









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Day 33 - Bigbury on Sea to Salcombe - 13 miles - cumulative mileage 450
Today's walk took place over a more rugged coastline with a combination of grass and gorse mixed in with some smaller boulders to make it more challenging than for several days.

This included reaching 120m above sea level at Bolberry Down.

Initial views of South Sands














The highlight of the day was to see a glorious Morgan sports car parked outside the Sands Hotel, upon my arrival at South Sands on the outskirts of Salcombe.


The evening was spent at the Salcombe YHA where I had dinner getting to know a group of 70 year old ladies on a walking holiday. They were a wonderful example to us all. They had been walking for over 35 years so were very fit for their age and because they were fit they bad a tremendous and positive outlook on life.

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Day 34 - Salcombe to Strete - 17 miles - cumulative mileage 468

The weather was absolutely stunning and the views back toward Salcombe even more so, once the mist had lifted. The town oozed wealth so I started with a feel-good attitude.


The ladies left an hour before me but by the time I caught up with them they were still walking hard and fast even though the paths were rugged and sometimes challenging, as we approached Prawle Point, the most southerly part of Devon. 


Not far to go!

The path from Torcross onwards became easier because I had an excellent sandwich and refreshing drink at the first hostellery in 4 hours of walking from Salcombe. The weather remained sunny and warm; plus the ground became flat as I walked along a path adjacent to Slapton Sands which went on for at least 3 miles.

The village of Strete was pretty and inviting with a newly refurbished pub and a friendly campsite just up the road where I met with a couple whom I later met in the pub.

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